Facial rollers, and particularly jade rollers, have been absolutely everywhere of late. Not only are they total Instagram bait — as small as they are — they claim to deliver powerful skin results. Bloggers and celebrities everywhere are using jade rollers, making them the number one facial roller in the spotlight. But as pretty as they are, jade and quartz rollers aren’t my weapon of choice when it comes to my skincare routine. Sure, they may help products penetrate better into the skin and improve its look and texture, but according to Toronto-based dermatologist Jennifer Salsberg, there’s no science that proves these delicate-looking rollers are actually effective. And from my experience, the jade roller is just a relaxing luxury added to my DIY spa Sunday. Which is why my facial roller of choice is the dermaroller.
What is a dermaroller?
Just like the jade roller, it’s a handheld facial roller but instead of a smooth head, it’s got tiny little needles. The concept comes from microneedling, an in-office skincare treatment that consists of needles puncturing into the skin. “Microneedling causes small injuries to the skin, which creates channels for topical serums and creams to enter, as well as stimulating the skin to heal, boosting production of collagen and elastin,” Salsberg explains.
What are the benefits of dermarollers ?
The derm/medispa procedure of microneedling has tons of skin benefits, including anti-aging, improving the look of the skin’s texture and reducing the appearance of acne scars. At-home dermarollers, on the other hand, are effective and provide exfoliation and help boost the absorption of skincare products. Although the concept of the two treatments are very similar, the results are drastically different. ”Medical-grade rollers, done in physician offices, produce more drastic results than those used at home because they can penetrate deeper. [Most at-home] dermarollers are under 1mm, so they do not penetrate deep enough to help with collagen production and scarring,” says Salsberg. But with that being said, not all devices are created equally. At-home dermarollers can range between 0.2 and under 1mm.
How do I use a derma roller?
It’s recommended to use it three to four times a week in your nighttime skin care regimen after double cleansing. The first step is to remain gentle, and avoid active acne and irritated skin. I like to roll vertically and horizontally and evenly apply pressure all over my face and do this for about two to three minutes. I then apply oils and serums. You can also apply your serums first, and then use your dermaroller to help work the product into your skin. Be extra-gentle around the eye and lip areas, since the skin there is delicate. Be sure to wash your dermaroller with rubbing alcohol after using and store it in its case. Use your dermaroller up to three times a week, or as needed.