In a fashion landscape where statements often transcend fabric, the “Protect the Dolls” T-shirt has emerged as a powerful emblem of solidarity with the transgender community. (The term “dolls” is an affectionate reference to trans women that’s rooted in 1980s ballroom culture and used throughout the queer community, but is not – yet – fully known in the mainstream.)
What began as a spontaneous addition to Conner Ives’ fall/winter 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week in February has evolved into a viral movement, blending style with advocacy.
After images went viral of the 28-year-old designer wearing the T-shirt when closing out his show, Ives quickly made the T-shirt available on connerives.com, pledging to donate all proceeds from the sale to the Trans Lifeline, an organization that delivers life-saving services to trans people in the U.S. “Given the U.S. federal government’s current hostility towards trans people, support like this is needed now more than ever,” Ives wrote on his website. So far, according the New York Times, sales of the “Protect the Dolls” T-shirt have raised more than $250,000, which will be donated to the trans-led charity.
Here’s everything you need to know about 2025 most important statement tee, which is being worn by fashion’s cool kids, queer activists and A-listers alike.
A spontaneous statement
During the week leading up to his fall/winter 2025 ready-to-wear runway presentation at London Fashion Week in late February 2025, American-born, London-based designer Conner Ives wrote in his phone’s Notes app: “make a T-shirt that says something.”
Ives, inspired by the support and influence of trans women in his career, workshopped early slogan ideas, including “We Heart the Dolls” (in reference to the “I Love New York” slogan) and “For the Dolls.” Then a model and regular collaborator of Ives, Hunter Pifer, who was being fitted in the studio as Ives workshopped the T-shirt, convinced him to use “Protect the Dolls.”
Pifer and Ives had become fast friends and regular collaborators ever since they met in 2023, when Pifer was recommended by fellow trans models Alex Consani and Colin Jones.
So, the night before Ives’ runway show, he found a deadstock white T-shirt and within a couple of minutes emblazoned it using heat-transfer paper with the phrase “Protect the Dolls.” The slogan was written in black Big Caslon serif typeface in all caps with left-justified alignment.
At the end of his show, which was held on February 23, 2025, Ives wore the shirt himself when walking down the runway, a move inspired by Lee Alexander McQueen, who had closed his spring/summer 2006 runway show walking the runway wearing a black T-shirt bearing the words “We Love You Kate” in reference to Kate Moss, who at the time was being smeared in the British tabloids about a drug scandal. McQueen’s emblazoned tee was meant as a gesture of support for a close friend.
“I just loved the gesture of it and the conviction with it,” Ives said of McQueen’s famous strut down the runway.
Diving deeper into the inspiration, Ives noted in an interview with The New York Times, “In the modern day, what is more ubiquitous than the graphic T-shirt? It was very reactive. I knew I wanted to say something, given what we’ve observed in the last few months with the U.S. government and the current political regime.”
Ives’ intention was clear: to spotlight the challenges faced by the trans community amid increasing political hostility, particularly in the U.S. and U.K. “I was raised and supported by incredible and wonderful women. I wouldn’t be here now if it weren’t for the ‘dolls,’” the designer told Dazed, emphasizing the profound impact trans women have had on his life and work.
Viral momentum and celebrity endorsements
The “Protect the Dolls” T-shirt and its message resonated, with requests overloading Ives’ inbox. “I didn’t really think about selling it until we woke up the next morning and we were 400 emails deep of people being like, ‘Where do I buy this?’” Ives told The Washington Post.
Responding to the overwhelming demand, starting from 5:00 pm GMT on February 26, 2025, Ives began selling the T-shirts for £75 (around $140 CAD). About 30 per cent of the price was used for raw material costs, production, printing and shipping, with the rest of the proceeds being donated to the community care organization Trans Lifeline, which offers support via a peer support and crisis hotline.
Beyond the fashion world, the “Protect the Dolls” T-shirt captured the attention of celebrities and influencers. Actor Pedro Pascal has donned the shirt on multiple occasions though the last few weeks, including at his 50th birthday party on April 2 when he was snapped with Honey Dijon, and again at the London premiere of Marvel’s Thunderbolts on April 22, making a poignant statement in support of his transgender sister, Lux Pascal. French fashion designer Haider Ackermann, whose partner is Ives’ publicist, posed with Tilda Swinton in the design. Swinton reportedly ordered several shirts herself. American singer Addison Rae shared a video on TikTok wearing the T-shirt. Singer Troye Sivan wore it during his guest performance for Charli XCX’s set at Coachella 2025, amplifying its visibility and leading to a surge in orders. Sivan’s performance reportedly helped sell 200 pieces of the T-shirt in less than 24 hours.
A lasting impact
Conner did not set out to make a political statement. In fact, the designer told Vogue that he’s spent most of his time trying to keep fashion and politics separate. “But there was a shift in the last six months where that level of compartmentalization just didn’t really feel relevant anymore,” Conner said in the interview. “When I think of the challenges that trans people in the States are facing right now, I just keep thinking about how scared I was when I was a 12-year-old gay white boy in an upper-middle-class suburb of New York City, let alone a trans girl in the middle of America under an administration that’s basically telling her that she doesn’t exist.”
The “Protect the Dolls” T-shirt exemplifies how fashion can serve as a catalyst for activism. Through a simple yet powerful message, Conner Ives has sparked a global conversation about trans rights, highlighting the role of designers and artists in advocating for marginalized communities.
The first two drops of the T-shirt – nearly 2,000 – instantly sold out. It is now available once again for pre-order for £75 on connerives.com, with profits again going to Trans Lifeline. For those worried they may miss out on the tee once again, Ives said that he plans to keep the pre-sale open indefinitely.
“We’ll keep doing this until everybody has their T-shirt,” he said.
As the shirt continues to gain prominence, it stands as a testament to the enduring power of fashion to inspire, unite and effect change.
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