There’s no middle ground when it comes to waterline eyeliner (a style we now call ‘tightlining’). You are either a lover or a hater. Personally speaking, I have always been a fan. I love a liner moment.
Though it became a signature of the ‘90s thanks to Kate Moss and the grunge aesthetic that predominated the early part of the decade, a swipe of liner rimming the lower lash line (a technique we now call ‘tightlining’) was a look Princess Diana actually popularized in the 1980s. Electric blue eyeliner on the waterline was her signature, and she even rocked it on her wedding day. Famous faces today who are staunch devotees of tightlining include Lily Allen, Victorian Beckham, Rihanna, and Princess Catherine of Wales.
The trick for success when it comes to lining your waterline is to incorporate it into your total eye look, not make the focal point. This is when liner can appear harsh, a little jarring, and give the illusion of smaller eyes.
Celebrity makeup artist Jessica Nayl0r says in her 20-year career, there has never been a time when waterline eyeliner has been completely out. “Those who love it will always love it,” Naylor shares. “The secret to achieving a dramatic but soft look with it is all about blending and balancing out what’s happening on the rest of the eye.”
Naylor says she loves to use a waterproof gel liner pencil for tightlining because it stays put. “You can also use a more traditional kohl pencil especially if the desired look is more smudgy and smokey. I like to tightline then take an eyeshadow of a similar shade and use an angled brush to nestle the product along the lower lashes to soften the edges and any harsh lines.”
According to Naylor, this also helps to widen the look of eyes which definitely can be perceived to have a narrower appearance when you add a darker element to the waterline. “You can avoid this by finding a balance between what you place on the upper and lower lashes,” Naylor explains. “Build a smokey eyeliner along the top lashes that slightly flicks out and up. This, paired with the waterline line liner with edges softened will work to create the illusion of thick sultry eye lashes.”
Another trick that will amplify your eyes is to tightline along the upper lash line which also pumps up the look of your lashes. This also will help to create a lived-in look that’s not too precious or precise. Though black and brown shades are the usual picks for tightlighing, don’t be afraid to experiment with colour just as Princess Diana did—blue, green, burgundy and terra cotta tones are trending and will make your eyes pop.
Here Are 5 Waterline Eyeliners We Love
The Ultra-Luxe Eyeliner
We’ve been using Prada’s waterproof eye pencil on repeat and love how smoothly it glides on and stays put all day. This rich black shade is inky perfection.
TRY: Prada Pradalines Eye Pencil in Nero, $45, sephora.com.
The Posh Approved Eyeliner
Victorian Beckham Beauty long wear waterproof eyeliners are additive. The shade range and performance are unmatched, and we love that new and cool colours are always being introduced—the perfect way to spice up your life.
TRY: Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Eyeliner in Terra Cotta, $50, victoriabeckhambeauty.com.
The Mega Waterproof Eyeliner
Wonderskin has quickly a beloved brand for tightlining fans. It has incredible staying power (pencils boast 1,440 minutes of non-smudge wearability) and boasts and electric range of shades.
TRY: Wonderskin 1440 Longwear Eyeliner in Aqua, $18, wonderskin.com.
The Fan Favourite Eyeliner
This liner is gold standard for tightlining. It’s easily smudged when first applied to create a smokey finish we love the shimmer finish of this burnished purple hue.
TRY: Stila Stay All Day Gel Eyeliner, $33, amazon.ca.
The Mega-Affordable Eyeliner
Sephora’s new eyeliner collection is stacked with 18 shades of waterproof perfection. We love the fine tip of these pencils and the sponge for easy smudging. The shimmer finishes are standouts especially this molten brown shade.
TRY: Sephora Collection 12HR Colorful Waterproof Eyeliner in Shimmer Espresso, $20, sephora.com.
