While plenty of New York’s buzziest designers (Rodarte, Off-White, Proenza Schouler, to name a few) have decamped to Paris in the last few seasons, rumours of New York Fashion Week’s demise have been greatly exaggerated. There was still plenty of spectacle and much to love at the recent round of shows. From the popcorn-paved runway at Calvin Klein, to the #MeToo finale moment at Prabal Gurung, to Marc Jacobs EVERYTHING, we run down our highlights from the week.
When Anna met Cardi pic.twitter.com/LFTqVfmO9X
— Matthew Schneier (@MatthewSchneier) February 11, 2018
#1: Cardi B & Anna Wintour. While Grace Coddington was apparently not amused, when Anna Wintour met Cardi B at the Alexander Wang show, the world rejoiced. And is it just us, or is Anna fangirling over this moment? I mean, just look at her smile!
#2: The popcorn runway at Calvin Klein. While the collection had a dystopian undercurrent (what with references to Hazmat suits and survival gear), the runway set had a decidedly cheery feel, as it was strewn with movie-theatre popcorn! The models, too, held bags of popcorn as accessories. Consider us #CKInspired.
Huge flourishes, gestures, broad strokes and silhouettes expressed in rich and gorgeous fabrics from double faced cashmeres, meltons, and tweeds to faille, moirés, iridescent and flocked taffetas, radzimir, velvet and warp print satins. Introducing Marc Jacobs Fall 2018 • Watch the Marc Jacobs Runway Show now on Instagram Stories #MJFW18
#3: An ’80s technicolor dream at Marc Jacobs. Leave it to Marc Jacobs to veer off in a completely different direction from everyone else with an ode to ’80s excess and the days of Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler and Yves Saint Laurent. Think: boxy blazers with linebacker shoulder pads; saturated brights; outsized silhouettes; and reams of glorious fabrics done up in bows and scarves that practically swallowed up the models whole. We simply cannot get enough of this hugely gutsy, palette-cleanser of a collection.
#4 The neon bobs and bowl cuts at Marc Jacobs. If the exaggerated, balls-out clothes weren’t enough, the hair was equally sickening. And it was real — not wigs(!). With the exception of the models wearing flat-top hats, nine of the girls received architectural haircuts courtesy of hairstylist Guido Palau, who was inspired by the asymmetrical looks of legendary hair master Vidal Sassoon. Meanwhile, colourist Josh Wood meticulously matched the haircolour to the jewel tones of the fabrics in the collection. The result was an electrifying show of teal, lime and fuchsia that emphasized the razor-sharp lines of the haircuts.
#5: A celebration of diversity at Christian Siriano. The Project Runway alum has been a loud proponent of celebrating beauty in all shapes and sizes, and his 10th anniversary show was no exception. The extravaganza included a whopping 72 red-carpet-worthy looks worn by one of the most diverse, body-positive runways we’ve seen all week, including body activist and model Ashley Graham, and actresses Selma Blair and Danielle Brooks. The icing on the cake: a front row that included Meg Ryan, Laverne Cox, and Cardi B.
#6: The Matrix revisited at Alexander Wang. A palette of all-black is nothing new for Alexander Wang, but this time out, the designer made reference to the sleek vibe of ’80s Robert Palmer girls and the futuristic feel of the Matrix, with long black leather coats laced with zippers and teeny black sunglasses.
#7: The mash-up of prints at Michael Kors. The all-American designer took cues from street style stars this season with a collection filled with a little something for everyone: from floral dresses, to combat boots, to tartan and plaid, and leopard print galore (and sometimes all at once). While the styling may not be for everyone, there were some seriously good pieces here, including beautiful floral midi dresses and plaid heeled boots.
#8: A #MeToo moment at Prabal Gurung. The colourful finale at Prabal Gurung (also well-known for celebrating diversity and inclusivity in his shows) featured a diverse cast of models, linked in arms as they headed down the runway holding white flowers. With the theme of celebrating powerful women, the backstage area was decked in posters with slogans such as “Your voice is your power: use it for justice” and the front row included notable feminists including Janet Mock and #MeToo founder Tarana Burke.